1. Introduction
The routes that the apostle Paul took on his journeys across Asia Minor still remain in dispute. A case in point is the route of Paul's first journey from Perga (Πέργη)Footnote 1 to Pisidian Antioch. Scholars have suggested three possible routes with variations for this journey. Two of these routes are routinely depicted in Bible atlases, often with little awareness of the ancient road network or the topography of the area. On a popular level, the recent opening of the St Paul Trail in southern Turkey has also stirred up interest in the route of Paul's first journey. Although the St Paul Trail does not follow the ancient routes exactly, Kate Clow's experience in preparing the new path has provided fresh insights into the region's history and topography.Footnote 2
2. The Route of Paul's First Journey
Acts 13.14 relates that Paul and Barnabas traveled inland from Perga to Pisidian Antioch. Barbara Levick makes a general comment that Paul's ‘journeyings took him along well-established routes’.Footnote 3 However, her vague description does not help much, because as Broughton correctly observes, ‘The text of Acts (XIII, 14) gives us no help regarding this stage of Saint Paul's first journey. We can only attempt to decide what was topographically and historically the most probable route’.Footnote 4 The text is vague regarding the route inland through which they passed (διϵλθόντɛς) to Pisidian Antioch. Pisidian Antioch sat at the apex of a triangle that ran from the plain of Pamphylia on the Mediterranean coast across the Taurus Mountains and through the fertile lake region. Within this triangle was the rugged, mountainous region called Pisidia.
The three possible routes for the journey may be classified according to their geographical direction from PergaFootnote 5—eastern, central, and western; see Figure 1.Footnote 6 This article will examine the viability of the suggested routes and their variations through the lens of literary, topographical, archaeological, and epigraphical evidence. It will also look at how Bible atlases have depicted this journey, often charting the route inadequately. After reviewing the evidence, the paper will present a new hypothesis regarding the route.
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Figure 1. The possible routes between Perga and Pisidian Antioch
a. The Eastern Route
The eastern route began at Perga and crossed the Cestrus (Aksu) River before running southeast through the plain of Pamphylia. It passed just south of Sillyum and crossed the Eurymedon River (Köprüçay) at Aspendus.Footnote 7 The main coastal road ran to Side, where the route turned north through the Taurus range to Lake Caralis (Beyşehir Gölü).Footnote 8 It first climbed past Etenna (Sırt Köy) through the foothills of the Taurus and then crossed through the pass at Kesik Beli before descending to Lake Caralis.Footnote 9 Ormerod suggests that this was probably the route followed by Servilius Isauricus around 75 BCE when he conquered the inland country of Orondeis.Footnote 10 In the Caralis basin the Orondian tribe had two communities—Mistea and Pappa. Mistea, later to be renamed Claudiocaesarea (modern Beyşehir), was located at the southeastern corner of Caralis. Here the road forked, with the north branch proceeding to Pisidian Antioch along the eastern shore of the lake, where it connected with the Via Sebaste at Neapolis.Footnote 11 (The fork to Iconium struck northeast to Pappa, later renamed Tiberiopolis, where it too connected with the Via Sebaste.) From Neapolis the road left the shores of Caralis and passed in a straight line through rolling hills to Pisidian Antioch.Footnote 12 The stages of the eastern route are:Footnote 13
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b. The Central Route
The central route ran north from Perga along the valley of the Cestrus (Aksu) River. F. W. Farrar suggested over a century ago that ‘the Apostles made their way up the valley of the Cestrus, passed along the eastern shore of the large and beautiful lake Eyerdir [sic]’.Footnote 14 North of Perga there was an ancient crossing point near Çatallar where the track switched to the east bank of the Cestrus.Footnote 15 The road followed a pleasant valley through the Pamphylian plain that narrowed in the north. At Karacaören, where the present dam sits, the gorge becomes very deep.Footnote 16 De Mesmay rightly points out that though this route may seem simple, it too involves crossing the Taurus!Footnote 17 Nearby a spur ran northwest to Cremna, while another branch proceeded to the northeast following the course of the upper Cestrus.Footnote 18 The route now begins to climb through steep valleys along a stretch called the King's Road (Kral Yolu). Along this section there are three inscriptions from the early Roman period engraved on the wall of a canyon just above the track. One is a Traveler's poem of Epictetus, who was born in nearby Phrygia. Today this area near Çandır is a national park called the Yazılı Kanyon (‘Canyon with Writing’) Milli Park. The road climbs out of the canyon southwest of Sütçüler, and sections of the Roman road can still be seen around this village.
The road proceeded north toward the only major city along the route—Adada (near Sağrak). Like the other Pisidian cities of Cremna and Sagalassus, Adada was perched on a high vantage point overlooking the valley below.Footnote 19 The dizzying ascent to the city is one of the best-preserved sections of Roman road in Turkey today. The roadbed is an engineering wonder as it twists along the edge of a precipitous cliff.Footnote 20 Adada for Paul, according to de Mesmay, was an étape incontournable—an inescapable stopping place.Footnote 21 Likewise, Clow writes, ‘Although much of Adada was built after Paul's travel, it must have been a welcome and comfortable halting place on a tough and dangerous journey’.Footnote 22 In Ramsay's day Adada bore the name of Kara Bavlo. He writes that ‘it is highly probable that the name Bavlo has arisen from the fact that Paul was the patron saint of the city, and the great church of the city was dedicated to him’.Footnote 23 He concludes that ‘the church dedicated to Paul probably originated in the belief that the Apostle had visited Adada on his way to Antioch’.Footnote 24 The main route from Adada continued northeast through the hill country to Timbriada (near Aksu).
Another track went northwest from Adada along the marshy shores of Lake Kovada to Prostanna. This Roman colony was situated above the southern end of Lake Limnae (Eğirdir Gölü) at a distance of 31 miles/50 kilometers from Adada. The map of Pisidia at the end of Levick's volume does not show a track from Adada to Lake Kovada that would connect with the Cremna–Prostanna road.Footnote 25 Nevertheless, she writes, ‘From Adada easy routes could be followed along branches which led north to Prostanna and south to Perge’.Footnote 26
From Timbriada the central route proceeded through the hills above Lake Limnae to Malos (Sarıidris). North of modern Mahmatlar the road descended to the eastern side of the lake where it connected with a track running along the shoreline from Prostanna. It continued along the lake to the mouth of the Anthios River (Yalvaç Çay) near Yeşilköy.Footnote 27 At Dabenae (Galanda?; modern Gelendost) the road entered the territory of Pisidian Antioch.Footnote 28 From Dabenae the road followed the Anthios northeast through the open fields near Höyüklü before arriving at Pisidian Antioch.Footnote 29 The stages of the central route are:
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c. The Western Route
The western route probably began to be used during the Persian and Hellenistic periods. The first portion may have been Alexander's route in 334 BCE when he marched from Pamphylia to Sagalassus in Pisidia. Along this route in 25 BCE Augustus founded Roman colonies at Comama, Apollonia, and Pisidian Antioch using Roman army veterans.Footnote 30 The road encircled Pisidia on a broken axis—basically south to north past Lake Ascania (Burdur Gölü) to Apollonia, then west to east from Apollonia to Iconium.Footnote 31 These colonies were strategically situated to guarantee the safety of the populace outside the Pisidian triangle. Inside the triangle was a hostile tribe called the Homanadenses. The Via Sebaste was built in 6 BCE by the legate Cornutus Arruntius Aquila.Footnote 32 Once the road was constructed, Augustus tasked Publius Sulpicius Quirinius to make war against the Homanadenses. After two to three years of conflict, Quirinius was victorious, taking some four thousand male prisoners. Remaining sections of road show that it was a wide, paved highway intended for wheeled traffic, not just a narrow stone track intended only for crossing by pedestrians and pack animals. It began at Perga and climbed out of the Cestrus River valley before heading northwest across the plain of Pamphylia.Footnote 33
About 22 miles/35 kilometers northwest of Attalia (Antalya) a natural pass called the Climax (Doşeme Boğazı) cuts through the Taurus range.Footnote 34 Today this pass is largely undisturbed and in a remarkable state of preservation because the modern highway follows the route of the Seljuks five miles west at the Çubuk Boğazı.Footnote 35 At the lower end of Doşeme Boğazı several Byzantine buildings still stand, showing that the road continued in use until at least the sixth century CE. Original sections of pavement can still be found along the ascent from the Pamphylian plain. After walking for approximately two hours, another group of buildings comes into view along with several sarcophagi in situ. At the summit of the pass there is a gate complex containing a milestone also in situ that marked a distance of 139 (CXXXVIIII) Roman milesFootnote 36 from Pisidian Antioch, the caput viae (head of the road). The road then descended into a picturesque valley before continuing to the Anatolian plateau along a gentle ascent.Footnote 37
The first city of importance on the Sebaste route was Comama, which sat in the middle of a flat plain at the junction of two roads.Footnote 38 It covered about thirty-five acres with no evidence of city walls. It ‘was founded primarily as a centre of Roman culture, to spread it along the routes on which it stood and to influence the development of the superficially hellenized neighbouring cities’.Footnote 39 This colony resembles Lystra in situation. The population of the city and its territory is estimated at between 6300 and 9450 people.Footnote 40 A milestone (CIL III. 6974) found here indicated it was 122 (CXXII) Roman miles from Pisidian Antioch.
The road continued northwest through pine-covered hills passing several smaller villages as it progressed across the plain of Lake Ascania. This saltwater lake dominated this part of the journey, and the road skirted the western shore of the lake. At the northwest corner of the lake the road left the shoreline and moved northeastward up a gentle pass to a junction of the Via Sebaste and the great Southern Highway that ran west to Apamea. On his subsequent journeys westward Paul would take this route to the province of Asia and to Ephesus. Near this junction a pillar was found atop a ridge that marked the boundary between the provinces of Asia and Galatia.Footnote 41 The road next descended into a valley that widens before reaching Apollonia.Footnote 42 The road then proceeds northeast along the base of Mount Gelincik. Paul passed beneath Gelincik's shadow on all three of his inland journeys, and would have been able to view snow on its north face well into early summer. The valley opened onto another plain along the northern shore of Lake Limnae. This freshwater lake still presents a dramatic setting in the mountains of Pisidia. In the vicinity of Gençali eight Roman milestones have been found. One was used as the headstone of a Muslim sage (Polatdede Türbesi) and records the distance to Pisidian Antioch as 23 (XXIII) Roman miles. At the old graveyard nearby a second milestone records the distance from Pisidian Antioch as 28 (XXIIX) Roman miles and to Apollonia as 19 (Iθ) Roman miles.Footnote 43 After skirting the shoreline for a dozen or so miles, the road climbed into the foothills leading to Pisidian Antioch. This Roman colony was also established by Augustus and was the initial terminus of the Via Sebaste. Pisidian Antioch as the caput viae sits at a dominant position near the apex of the Pisidian triangle.Footnote 44 From Pisidian Antioch the Via Sebaste was later extended to Iconium and Lystra.
Broughton proposed a variation of the western route, suggesting that above Climax Pass, Paul took a branch that ran through Cremna, Sagalassus, Baris, and Prostanna, before connecting with the route on the eastern shore of Lake Limnae. He preferred this route because (1) it is unclear whether ‘there was a frequented highway beyond Adada through the rough country and the culturally backward communities about the sources of the Eurymedon’ and (2) ‘[it] is not so circuitous as the Via Sebaste’.Footnote 45 The stages of the western route following the Via SebasteFootnote 46 are:
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For Broughton's alternate route the total first along the Via Sebaste, then through Sagalassus and Parlais would be 152 miles. His route saves only 4 miles from the ‘circuitous’ Via Sebaste.Footnote 48
d. The Route According to Bible Atlases
Before drawing a conclusion as to the viability of each of the three proposed routes, it is useful to look at which route is preferred in the depictions of the first journey in various Bible atlases. Upon examining these atlases, it is easy to concur with David French's criticism that the route on most maps is ‘indicated imprecisely’ and shows an ‘imperfect knowledge of the terrain which lies between Perge and Antiochia’.Footnote 49 In some atlases it is difficult to determine which route is being suggested.
Regarding the eastern route, there are no atlases that depict it. Instead most atlases show the central route.Footnote 50The InterVarsity Atlas of Bible History inexplicably depicts the route passing northeast to the valley of the Eurymedon River. A road to Selge did exist but stopped there because of the rugged terrain to the north. This atlas therefore shows a route that never existed in antiquity.Footnote 51 In The Sacred Bridge: Carta's Atlas of the Biblical World the text accompanying the map reads, ‘Travel from Perga followed inland along the Cestrus River to the Via Sebaste built in 6 BCE by Caesar Augustus through Colonia Comama to Colonia Antiochia’. It is unclear whether this postulates a route following the Via Sebaste westward through Comama or a route up the Cestrus meeting the Via Sebaste at Pisidian Antioch. The accompanying map clearly portrays the latter, central route.Footnote 52 Regarding the western route following the Via Sebaste, only the Holman Bible Atlas definitely shows it.Footnote 53 Yet its author later concedes, ‘It is also possible that Paul detoured eastward to take advantage of better roads to reach Antioch’.Footnote 54 The preponderance of atlases that prefer the central route seems to have little to do with a topographical or historical examination of the evidence. Rather it is simply the most direct route between Perga and Pisidian Antioch for cartographers and illustrators to draw.
3. Paul's Route
Of the three possible routes, John McRay favors the eastern one: ‘This would be a steep climb across high mountains for about eighty miles and take approximately a week, but it would probably be faster than the western route. All things considered, this seems to be the best choice of the available options’.Footnote 55 Likewise, Jack Finegan rejects the western route because ‘it swung quite far to the west’, and he also claims the eastern route as ‘most likely’.Footnote 56 Such a conclusion is difficult to sustain, however, since this route is the most rugged and covers 149 miles, only 7 miles fewer than the western route.Footnote 57 Stephen Mitchell in his monumental two-volume study Anatolia notes that Iconium, not Pisidian Antioch, was the natural terminus of the eastern route.Footnote 58 Indeed a modern highway follows this route today, and its traffic is usually destined for Konya (ancient Iconium), not Yalvaç (ancient Pisidian Antioch). If Paul were going directly to Iconium, this would be his route of choice.
One other matter suggests ruling out this option. The Pamphylian rivers were apparently navigable in the first century (Strabo 14.4.2) so Paul perhaps sailed up the Cestrus (Aksu) River to Perga's port, several miles east of the city.Footnote 59 If Paul had planned to take the eastern route, Sergius Paulus would have no doubt engaged a vessel for the apostles that would sail up the Eurymedon River to Aspendus. This would have saved the apostles the walk from Perga. Regarding its viability for Paul's first journey, the eastern route is rejected.
Étienne de Mesmay in his new book on Paul's routes in Turkey favors the central route for his roundtrip.Footnote 60 Likewise, Giray Ercenk, the Turkish authority on the ancient roads of this region, calls the central route ‘Aziz Paulos Yolu’ (St Paul's Road).Footnote 61 As we have seen, this is the preferred route of the Bible atlases because it was the most direct at 114 miles.
David French, the foremost authority on Roman roads in Asia Minor, opts for the western route. While 37% longer than the central route, it was much easier because it avoided the deep valleys and difficult terrain of the Taurus Mountains. Stephen Mitchell, a leading scholar on Asia Minor, believes that Sergius Paulus himself influenced Paul's choice of roads: ‘It is an elementary inference that he advised or encouraged Paul to make the trip up-country into Asia Minor, following the via Sebaste’.Footnote 62 Broughton's alternative route has little to commend it. It is nearly as long, and leaves the main route for a secondary road through the rugged Pisidian terrain.
Although it was not the shortest route, by far the easiest and probably the safest route for Paul and Barnabas to travel to Pisidian Antioch was the western route along the Via Sebaste—a conclusion supported by such experts on Anatolia as French and Mitchell. I agree with them that Paul would have taken the western route to Pisidian Antioch along the Via Sebaste. However, for the return another option must be considered. At the end of the first journey Acts 14.21 relates that Paul and Barnabas revisited the newly formed south Galatian churches instead of taking the direct route back to Tarsus and Antioch on the Orontes via the Cilician and Syrian Gates. At Pisidian Antioch the apostles were faced with the choice of whether to return on the longer route along the Via Sebaste or to take the shorter route via Adada down the Cestrus valley. From Pisidian Antioch Paul could see the two mountains that framed that choice—Gelincik Dağı (9181 ft/2799 m) at the northwest corner of Lake Limnae and Ouiaros (Davraz Dağı; 8643 ft/2635 m) at its southwest corner. French believes that Paul would have taken a paved road in both directions if one had been available.Footnote 63 This, however, is just speculation, and at the time Paul had more important concerns on his mind than just the best-paved road. He had been traveling for some two years so was undoubtedly anxious to return home to Antioch. Paul seems to have opted for the most direct route because Acts 14.24 expressly states that he and Barnabas now passed through Pisidia (διϵλθόντϵς τὴν Πισιδίαν).Footnote 64 Neither the eastern nor western routes passed through Pisidia; only the central route did. I thus conclude that Paul chose the western route for his inbound journey to Pisidian Antioch and the central route for the return to Perga.