Introduction
Although there are reports that the Gallegan Pero Díaz or Diez, visited Pattani in 1540, it is not entirely clear whether he was Spanish or Portuguese.Footnote 1 He came from Monterrei, Ourense, less than 10 km from the present Portuguese border, and was discovered by the Villalobos expedition in Maluku that had left Nueva España (Mexico) in 1542. He simply recounted “that last May of 1544 he left Pattani in a Chinese junk”.Footnote 2 Pattani was part of the Ayutthaya kingdom in the sixteenth century, but there is no mention of Ayutthaya in early sixteenth-century Spanish reports. The other earliest Spanish records we have of Spaniards in Siam cover the disastrous expedition of the Portuguese Diego Belloso and the Spaniard Blas Ruíz with many other Spaniards in 1596; a story recounted in de Morga's Sucesos and elsewhere.Footnote 3 In the Spanish language we also have the letter about Siam to King Philip II written by João de Gaio, the Portuguese bishop of Melaka, and dated Melaka, 27 December 1584, which was later translated into Spanish and preserved in the Boxer Codex.Footnote 4 Chapter 11 of this letter appears to describe Ayutthaya since it describes the “city of Siam” while the earlier Chapter 5 says that the city of Siam is thirty-five to forty leagues from the sandbar.Footnote 5 By contrast there are many Portuguese reports from the early sixteenth century, which is after Portugal started exploring the Far East. As early as 1498 Vasco da Gama learnt about Siam on his expedition but “…real Portuguese contact was established after the conquest of Malacca in 1511”.Footnote 6 This victory brought to an end the strife between Melaka and Ayutthaya. Portuguese contact with Thailand started at this point and visits continued apace. Soon Portuguese merchants were established in Ayutthaya. João de Barros writing between 1550 and 1560 described Ayutthaya and in particular records that the highest Buddha image in Siam “which is of metal among many others in that kingdom, which is in a temple in the city of Socotai [Sukothai], which they say is the oldest in the kingdom, which idol is eighty handspans [or 17 metres]”.Footnote 7 It was “cast on the orders of King Rama Tibodi in about 1500, and erected in Wat Srisanphet, was forty eight feet high, and the pedestal was twenty-four feet”.Footnote 8 In 1584, “the Burmese King attacked Ayuthia, [but] the invasion was resisted by [Prince] Naresuen who displayed great courage and military tactics”.Footnote 9 This was a year or more before the Spaniards arrived in Ayutthaya.
In Melaka the Portuguese learnt about the Spice Islands and subsequently they strove to maintain their dominance in the region and a monopoly on the spice trade, an aim that continually piqued the Spaniards when they arrived to settle the Philippines from 1565.
The present report of Spaniards getting to Ayutthaya comes from a manuscript, the Lilly Historia, the original text was probably written in the late 1590s.Footnote 10 It occurs in a report of the mission of the royal factor Juan Bautista Román and the Jesuit Alonso Sánchez to China, ostensibly to address a mutiny that had taken place on a galleon but Sánchez hoped this would provide an opportunity to get into China and proselytise there. The Spaniards on the expedition eventually left Macao, but a large group was soon to split from the rest, and found themselves in Ayutthaya. Ultimately, and only after many travails for all concerned, all but one of the Spaniards were reunited almost within sight of Manila. Sánchez's own accounts make no mention of Ayutthaya, and scarcely any of Siam, presumably because he was not with the group that visited Ayutthaya. When both parties did get back together they swapped stories of their encounters but, prolific writer though he was, Sánchez chose not to record anything about the visit to Ayutthaya.
The report occupies little more than one folio and occurs three-quarters of the way through the Lilly Historia, which comprises 314 folios. The manuscript is in the Lilly Library in Bloomington, Indiana, and recounts the history of the Spanish Philippines from the arrival of Legazpi in 1565 until it breaks off in the Cambodia campaign in 1596. It appears to be the earliest Spanish history of the colonial Philippines and does not seem to have been written by a cleric. The author, who reveals little about himself, states that he was in the Indies for thirty years, but that may include time in the Americas. At times he explicitly says that he gets information from eyewitnesses. Short extracts from the manuscript were published by the Franciscan archivist Lorenzo Pérez in the 1930s in two articles that described the manuscript as “Un códice desconocido”, viz. unknown. Charles Boxer knew about it, but only wrote one page of notes on it and does not seem to have referred to it otherwise.Footnote 11
The 1584‒5 trip to Macao
The description of events on the protracted journey is complicated and includes a flashback. In 1583, only twelve years after Manila had been taken by the Spaniards as their headquarters, and only eighteen years after their arrival in the Philippines, the fourth Spanish governor, Gonzalo Ronquillo de Peñalosa (governed 1580‒3), died and a disastrous fire, started by candles round his bier, destroyed most of Manila including the gunpowder store. News was sent off to New Spain in June 1583 in two galleons,Footnote 12 but the shipmaster and pilot of one had other plans. Because of stormy weather, instead of leaving as usual through the Embocadero (San Bernardino Strait), the ship sailed along the east of Luzon past Cape Bojeador up towards Taiwan. The galleon first went to Xiamen and then, having acquired permission in the form of a chapa i.e. a permit, it went to Macao.Footnote 13 There the crew mutinied against the captain Francisco de Mercado. Word got back to Manila and the interim governor, Diego Ronquillo (governed 1583‒4),Footnote 14 sent the Spanish royal factor Juan Bautista Román, to sort things out. He was accompanied by the Jesuit Alonso Sánchez who would negotiate with the Chinese authorities using the good offices of the Portuguese Jesuits in Macao. This he did, deftly avoiding the diplomatic difficulty of administering Spanish law against the mutineers on Chinese soil by trying and hanging the ringleaders on board before the galleon left for Acapulco, where it arrived safely.Footnote 15 As noted above Sánchez had other reasons for wanting to go to Macao. China was the great potential prize for Christianisation and Sánchez used everything in his power in pursuit of “La empresa de China”–The China Venture, which Ollé, with great justification, describes as “un espejismo”–an illusion.Footnote 16 Sánchez's endeavours in Macao were unsuccessful and eventually Bautista, Sánchez and their men set sail back to Manila on 4 October 1584 expecting a reasonably quick journey back.
Hardly had they departed when they encountered fierce storms and landed on Hainan without a chapa. The ship was left in bad shape: the poop damaged and the mainmast topgallant broken. Román, a sailor and a Malay youth went to a town a few kilometres inland to find an interpreter. The local people welcomed them but warned them they could not leave without a chapa. To get this they should send two people to the “king”, who was not far away, with suitable presents. They took fine dishes and four pieces of damask. They were turned back by officials who came back to the ship and were entertained there. However the local “queen” arrived in a ship and they were obliged to give her a present and told to go to the king of Sinua (Annam).Footnote 17 They travelled six daysFootnote 18 to see her husband “king” TutanFootnote 19 who scoffed at their presents as too meagre for the great king of Sinua and wanted an artillery piece from their ship. He then kept them, sending a letter back to the ship, and the piece was sent, but then the king became aware of a better piece so kept some men hostage till he should receive it. The queen continued her demands but the factor said he would fulfil them later. One of the natives emerged with a machete and there was a brief encounter in which a certain Diego Maldonado was killed. The factor could not get all of the Spaniards aboard but he had the rowers ready and they pulled away from the shore leaving many behind.
Sánchez says nothing about trying to get a chapa but does mention the local king and queen, whom he describes as “vile”.Footnote 20 He was distraught about leaving his companions and says so twice in his report.Footnote 21 The twentieth-century account by de la Costa that the men on the ship were “bored” seems to have no justification whatsoever.Footnote 22 Sánchez says that they went to look for food, but does not mention all the negotiations about the chapa.
When the Tutan returned from the giving of the present of artillery, etc., to the “great king”, he released the twenty-three prisoners. The Spaniards then went overland for a couple of days to a bay in CachanFootnote 23 where Portuguese ships came and a Chinese interpreter told them that a Portuguese called Costantino FariñaFootnote 24 had come from Siam and wanted to have news of Macao (where he had a house). They found him ten kilometres away. Fariña then sent Geronimo de CuellarFootnote 25 to the king of Cachan, another fifteen kilometres away, with a present and instructions to tell him all that had happened to the Spaniards. There they got sympathy and were told that Queen Bac was an evil woman.Footnote 26 When they rejoined Fariña his boat had been lost but they managed to hire a soma―a junk.Footnote 27 Now they were all off to Siam coasting Cochin China and entering the Gulf of Siam.Footnote 28 After passing several small islands they entered the river of BancoseyFootnote 29 by which time they were very short of food and water. Fariña and a few others then went fourteen leagues (80 km)Footnote 30 to a walled city called Perperi (Phetchaburi) where they learnt that the king of Siam was at war with the king of Pegu (Burma). Although a pirate who had robbed many ships passed close by, they were not seen and remained safe.
The Lilly Historia description of Ayutthaya
The manuscript then gives an account of just under 1,000 words of going up river to Ayutthaya and what they saw there, which we now give in translation.
[fol. 226v] Footnote 31 Costantino Fariña set off from there over land to the city of Siam that is called OdiaFootnote 32 having said to the companions who were there that he would send light boats in which they could get there. And, having waited there more than forty days with great trials and tribulations, there being good weather, they passed the bar of the Siam River in the soma.Footnote 33 The river is very wide and deep and the ships of the city, which is more than seventy leagues up river, go there. Most of the riverbanks are inhabited and have many coco-palms and other trees and, further up before arriving at the [fol. 227r] city, there are very beautiful and pleasant flowery fields in view. And on the tide the soma went as far as the city, which is very large and is on a good site as follows. The city of Ayutthaya, where the court of the King of Siam is, is on a wide and spacious plain on a large lake of water that surrounds it,Footnote 34 where there is a very large number of boats travelling on all of it. There are many monasteries, which they call varelas,Footnote 35 that are richly worked and very large. All are very gilded inside and out and there are many images of idols of various forms, which they have and hold in great veneration. The principal monastery, where most of the city attends for conjunctions and oppositions of the moon,Footnote 36 is very large and has a large number of idols. In this temple there are more than fifty priests preaching from their stools, where they preach simultaneously in different parts of the monastery, teaching their law without intruding on each other. In their language they are called bicos.Footnote 37 They are very charitable and are mendicants, and they survive on the offerings that they seek each day in the city. They keep nothing left over from one day to the next, giving it in charity to the poor. Apart from other temples there is one that they call the monastery of the god of the fields. Footnote 38 It is made of stone and stuccoFootnote 39 and is so high and big like a tower with a circumference of sixteen brazas.Footnote 40 The local people say that when this idol was made then there were thirteen cahizesFootnote 41 of stone alone, not counting other materials― there is another temple of the god of the suno in which there is another very large idol that seems to be asleep.Footnote 42 All these monasteries are made of brick and stone, highly gilded both inside and out, and with expensive and elegant materials. Beside the ring of water that surrounds this city there is another very beautiful one of brick braced by broad timbersFootnote 43 and four brazos high,Footnote 44 with a hundred gates,Footnote 45 through which one goes in and out of the city and has many bastions that are in the mouths of the rivers. Between one entrance and another [fol. 227v] on top of the wall are two or three stone structures in which sentinels keep watch by day and night. On top of the walls there are great quantities of throwing sticksFootnote 46 with places to throw them. Between one gate and another there is a space of three hundred and twenty-four paces. They have a large amount of artillery that is positioned in the bastions at the entrances of the rivers.Footnote 47 They make and have very good harquebuses and good gunpowder. The people are little skilled in war. The common people use thin canes with iron points and a dagger in their belt. The city seems to have more than 100,000 inhabitants. The ordinary houses are small, each enclosed by itself. The houses of the king are very large with many courtyards and buildings and elephant houses. Throughout the city there are many shops in which they sell foodstuffs of which there is great supply. The king is treated with great majesty and respect. All his commanders and officers serve him with great obedience and fear. It is not permitted to see or speak to him except with great difficulty and then, most times, through a glazed window.Footnote 48 He is very cruel and vengeful and, with little provocation, goes and kills people and inflicts other indignities and torments and therefore he is greatly feared.Footnote 49 At this time, the king of Siam was at war with the king of PeguFootnote 50 who was very rich and powerful and they say he came upon this city with 1,800,000 men.Footnote 51 The king of Siam has an army of 2,000,000 men and 4,000 war-elephants that go into battle to fight with howdahs on top with eight or ten men inside. Having stayed several days in this city of Ayutthaya they managed to leave it and return to the Philippines, and although they had many difficulties in getting permission because of the [fol. 228r] war, when they finally got it, having acquired some arms and ship gear for the voyage, though little enough of it, they left the city and river of Siam in a not-very-well rigged, nor seaworthy, fusta,Footnote 52 that a Portuguese, Simon Ravelo, had, since they did not want to spend any more time in new persecutions and travails.
Getting back to Manila
First they went back down the coast of Siam past Pajan (Pahan), Hube and Condore (Côn Sơn) islands and then sailed out of sight of land for fifteen days driven by fierce winds (vendavales). They knew they were at eleven degrees north (Manila is in fourteen degrees north) and found they were near the Calamianes Islands in the Philippines so it was then plain sailing to the Island of Mindoro and on to Manila.
The Lilly Historia then flashes back to Román and his ship and the description is close to that of Sánchez.Footnote 53 They went along the coast of Cochin China and were almost lost in a storm near Cambodia but they succeeded in getting as far as the Singapore Strait and then to Melaka. Sánchez knew there were fellow Jesuits there and news of his arrival brought a welcoming party a league out to sea to greet them.Footnote 54 They stayed there for a few months getting the ship ready for the return to the Philippines.Footnote 55 Setting sail they had good weather across to Borneo and then Paragua, one of the Calamianes Islands, and then to Mindoro, taking over forty days for the whole voyage to Manila.
Not many kilometres (8 to 10 leagues = 40 to 50 km) from Manila, Román's ship spotted a caravel with lateen sails, a vessel that was clearly not Iberian and, on getting closer they saw tall people some of whom were dressed in Portuguese clothes. Eventually they realised they were their very own companions and there was great rejoicing. Almost miraculously only one of their number had died.Footnote 56 Sánchez reports that they swapped stories but he does not say what they said.Footnote 57 He makes no mention of Ayutthaya.
To cap it all, on the same day, the galleons San Juan and San Martín also arrived from Acapulco, having safely completed their round trip to Acapulco, causing great “general contentment” for all concerned.Footnote 58 The date was 6 June 1585.
Acknowledgments
Thanks to David Chandler, Baas Terwiel and Ken Breazeale for valuable information and especially to Chris Baker and Brian A. Zottoli for their generous help and sharing of technical knowledge. Thanks also to Di Ouyang and her staff in the Asian Collections at the National Library of Australia.