Arriving alone at Srinagar airport, I felt very far from the planning meeting held in London. It seemed an act of faith that I would find my hosts and destination. My faith was rewarded quickly when my two hosts picked me from the passengers at arrivals. Sadly, there are not many European visitors to Kashmir these days, while its political situation remains unresolved. They greeted me warmly and escorted me to a car and driver who would take me to the education centre at Dobiwan, where our course was to be held. On the way there, the driver took a series of phone calls. He informed me that we would have to make a diversion to avoid ‘pelting’ on our planned route. I had arrived on the day of a demonstration following an incident between the Indian army and local youths. Protesters had lined the roadside of major routes, including ours, ready to pelt with stones any vehicle foolhardy enough to try to pass. We used a disguised vehicle to travel to our residence.